Night Train to Venice

Did I ever tell you about the time I rode a night train? No? It all started with Gyro-in-a-box. I am not kidding. Moments before catching a tram to the Vienna train station my traveling companion (we’ll call her Laurie…because that is her name) and I made a quick stop at the all-night Greek kebob stand conveniently located at the apex of Vienna’s bus and tram lines, and in view of the famed State Opera House. Packed in charming “Chinese take-out” boxes was sliced Greek meatloaf (that delicious combination of seasoned ground lamb, pork and beef slowly rotated over flame), lettuce, tomatoes, sliced red onion, and a yogurt sauce with a hint of lemon, garlic, and mint. The pita was unceremoniously handed to us in a napkin. I wondered if “The Jerk’s” Navin Johnson may have been onto something, and “pizza in a cup” might just be next.

Armed with provisions we scampered aboard our economy 6-berth sleeper car with the anticipation of pre-teen girls going to a sleep-over. We spread our bags all over and played with the lights, pull-out tables, and compartment switches. As the departure whistle grew nearer we anxiously discussed the possibility that we might have to sleep in full view of four other strangers. Would they snore? Moreover, do I drool? But my stuff occupied half of the cabin, and Laurie’s took up the other half. So, where would those poor people sleep?

As I strolled down the narrow corridor in search of a clean bathroom I discovered the entire train was fully packed. Ours was the only cabin with only two passengers. Was it possible that we might luck out and get a private cabin for the price of a 6-person sleeper? We settled in, giddy with delight at our providence, when the door slammed open and in true “Kramer-esque” fashion, a young girl tumbled in lugging a bag as big as a Volkswagon. She scrambled to her feet and after several tries, managed to drag her rucksack all the way in and close the door behind her. She looked down at our astonished faces and broke into the sweetest smile I have ever seen.

“Hi, I’m Lucy,” she proclaimed with a lilting South African accent. This impressive 21-year old went on to explain how she came to be touring Europe, all by herself. She described the meticulously planning and research that preceded her 3-month trip, and the only element of her journey that gave her mother concern was this leg, from Vienna to Venice—on a night train.

Night trains are inherently weird. They mix total strangers in confined spaces during personal moments, and everybody is supposed to be completely cool with the idea that some creepy guy might be watching. The beds are three inches shorter than the average Oompa Loompa, and for some unexplainable reason, throughout the night the conductors shout obscenities at every stop. No wonder Lucy’s parents were apprehensive.

I know I pray for help and it usually comes in a variety of forms. However, as I witnessed the relief on Lucy’s face when she saw two motherly-types sprawled in her cabin, I realized sometimes I am an answer to another’s prayer. Across the world in South Africa, Lucy’s mom pleaded her hope for her daughter’s safe journey, and we are hysterically safe. We broke out the gyro in a box and shared it with our hungry young tourist. Before long our picnic turned into a full meal including Lucy’s fruit, my German wafer cookies with hazelnut-chocolate cream, and a magnificent leftover apricot pastry from Aida (a superb coffee house on Kartnerstrasse, Vienna’s venerated shopping street). A cup of *Caro with a splash of cream topped off a perfect evening. We giggled ourselves to sleep—what sleep could be had with a potty-mouthed Austrian guy stringing together colorful epithets just outside the door.

Although the next morning we three hugged each other goodbye in the sparkly blue morning air of Venice, we knew a tender mercy had been granted to us all. We had new friends—and sometimes we move around life’s chessboard to help another player.

*Caro is a roasted barley and chicory instant hot beverage similar to coffee. It is naturally caffeine free and tastes great with a pinch of cocoa and a splash of milk or cream. In the US it is sold under the brands: Pero, Caffix, and Roma.

Tres Hatch is the author of Miracle Pill 10 Truths to Healthy, Thin, & Sexy.